An insider's guide to the Cotswolds' best-kept secret (2024)

You’d be missing out if you’ve never visited Stroud; it could be the Cotswolds' best-kept secret, enveloped by five sweeping green valleys of Gloucestershire, also known as the ‘Golden Valley’ and crowned the best place to live in 2021. Painswick, Slad, Toadsmoor, Chalford and Nailsworth collectively form this hidden gem. Home to my friends, family, Ralph (the family dog) and where I pulled my very first pint – which probably best suited a cone – this idyllic part of the world is where I grew up. From the iconic mud-coated Land Rovers to the aroma of fresh-farm produce and the inviting ambience of quintessential pubs, every aspect of Stroud exudes authenticity and charm. And if you encounter the occasional pothole or two, consider it a sure sign that you’ve arrived.

For natural beauty, Stroud is utterly captivating with its vibrant arts scene and expansive manicured landscapes where you’ll find an age-old reputation for sheep farming and wool. Its rivers, peppered with old mills, were once powered by the local streams that flow through the Five Valleys.

Stroud is no stranger to producing and luring many creative talents, from the Beatles performing at The Stroud Subscription Rooms in 1962 to being home to notable icons like Edward Beard Budding, who invented the first-ever lawnmower. Then there’s Laurie Lee, who penned the timeless English classic Cider with Rosie, hatched in the serene Slad Valley. Jilly Cooper’s vibrant stories are set against a backdrop reminiscent of her stomping grounds, Bisley, in Stroud. And Plum Sykes brought a touch of Vogue to the Cotswolds by building the perfect quintessential home within the Stroud Valley. Stroud’s soil has also nurtured artists like Damien Hirst, who once chose Chalford as the primary base for his art studio.

In 1999, Jasper Conran and Isabella Blow launched the Stroud Farmer’s Market, a testament to the town’s commitment to local produce and community spirit. Still to this day, the market is held and beckons those far and near.

Stroud is full of remarkable properties, from Isabella Blow’s former home, Hilles House – an Edwardian Manor-turned-wedding venue – and Princess Anne’s stunning Gatcombe Park, to Lypiatt Manor – a neo-Classical Grade I property that was once home to Prince and Princess Michael of Kent. Stroud is a treasure trove of archaeological wonders.

Brimming with history and bucolic beauty, Stroud enchants those who want a slice of Cotswold chic in a farmland setting. Jasper Conran once aptly described Stroud as “the Covent Garden of the Cotswolds”.

Where to stay in Stroud

The Painswick

It’s all about plush, homely interiors, soft furnishings, crisp linen sheets and the plumpest of pillows at The Painswick. Within the Grade II stone walls of this mansion you’ll find a range of room options, from the Terrace Rooms – where you can indulge in a sun-soaked breakfast – to the Snug Rooms, tucked in the eaves of the cosy garden wing. Don’t miss the private balcony overlooking the outstanding surroundings of Painswick from George’s Suite, too.

Address: Kemps Lane, Painswick, Stroud GL6 6YB, United Kingdom

Burleigh Court

Stroud’s Burleigh Court is a charming Grade II manor house hotel, perched on a hillside overlooking exceptional rural scenes of Stroud with 18 rooms, suites and pet-friendly chambers that are super comfortable, generously sized and full of a character. Their afternoon tea is magical; there's an enticing variety of sweet and savoury options available, all served in an inviting space with oversized Victorian-framed windows that look out to a beautiful uninterrupted view of the Golden Valley. It is, quite simply, postcard perfect.

Address: Burleigh Court, The Roundabouts, Walls Quarry, Stroud GL5 2PF, United Kingdom

Cowley Manor Experimental

Just 10 miles from Stroud, Cowley Manor Experimental, a country-house hotel and refined grand dame, is set in 55 acres of Gloucestershire countryside with 36 bedrooms. Room options include their decadent Water Lily, a room for two with views of the lake, the Cowley Manor Suite blessed with a panoramic setting, the Alpaca’s Room, an abode for the whole family, and more. One of Cowley Manor Experimental’s biggest attractions is the C-Side Spa, offering holistic remedies that use natural, organic products.

Address: Cowley, Cheltenham GL53 9NL, United Kingdom

Calcot & Spa

In the dapper village of Tetbury, just eight miles from Stroud, you’ll find Calcot & Spa, an idyllic refuge adjacent to King Charles’ country residence. This guilt-free retreat promises endless fun in rural splendour, with facilities including an outdoor pool, hot-tub, gym and a fabulous spa. Beyond its grand façade and acres of land, this impressive historic manor house feels more like a resort-hotel than a stately home – it’s the ideal family getaway or intimate weekend away for two in sheer comfort.

Address: Gloucestershire, Tetbury GL8 8YJ

Where to eat and drink in Stroud

Felt Cafe

The family-run Felt Cafe stands proudly as one of Stroud’s finest brunch spots. Set alongside the River Frome and neighbouring an age-old felting mill, its name simply reflects off the gin-clear waters of this idyllic Narnian setting. Here, you’ll discover fresh coffee, artisan cakes, delectable lunches and weekly specials inspired by the owner’s passion for globe-trotting and culinary flair. Keep an eye out for the resident herring swooping the mineral-rich water, alongside kingfishers, dippers, otters and ducks. It’s a favoured Saturday tradition, a special spot shared with my mum during visits. The smoked salmon pizzette, topped with crème fraiche, caviar, capers, avocado, rocket, and truffle, is a fave!

Address: Felt Cafe, Bourne, Brimscombe, Stroud GL5
Website: feltcafe.co.uk

The Jolly Nice

Dressed head-to-toe in farming splendour, The Jolly Nice stands as a multi-award winning farm shop, dedicated to championing local farmers, growers and artisans. Don’t be deterred by the queue of retro Porsches and brand-spanking new Range Rovers; it serves as a bustling hub for the Cotswold brigade, where locals, often in tweed, arrive to buy succulent cuts of meat for impromptu dinner parties. With its array of offerings, including a cafe, a convenient drive-through takeaway (the burgers are juicy), and a bar serving delicious local beers, The Jolly Nice warmly welcomes guests while displaying first-class offerings from the Cotswolds.

Address: Jolly Nice Farmshop & Kitchen, Frampton Mansell, Stroud GL6 8HZ
Website: jollynicefarmshop.com

The Woolpack Inn

Three centuries on, The Woolpack Inn remains an unspoiled treasure nestled in the scenic Slad Valley, beloved by local Laurie Lee of Cider with Rosie. This cosy, rustic place remains a hotspot among Stroud folk and visitors alike and for good reason, it’s an inn where you can enjoy real ales, craft beer, exquisite ciders and delectable Cotswold dishes. Renowned for their Sunday roasts and ever-changing seasonal menu that will no doubt inspire you to dust off your cookbook, there is no better pub to dine with beautiful views across the valley.

Address: Slad Road, Slad, Stroud GL6 7QA
Website: thewoolpackslad.com

Stroud Brewery

Stroud Brewery has gained a reputation for beer-loving fans where the beers are ever-flowing and the pizza menu is tempting. Well-rested beside a canal path, it's a casual, laid-back and fun spot to sip a pint. The favourite, Budding, an organic pale ale named after Stroud inventor Edward Beard Budding, is simply divine, holding a sweet malt taste with grassy notes.

Address: London Road, Brimscombe, Stroud GL5 2BY
Website: stroudbrewery.co.uk

Things to do in Stroud

Made In Stroud

Venture into Made In Stroud, where you’re greeted with shelves stacked high with exquisite offerings from the Cotswolds countryside. From delicious marmalades to chutneys, candles, ceramics and more, this quaint store offers the chance to take a piece of Stroud home with you. For pantry enthusiasts, it’s a motherlode and a place that never fails to remind me of my grandma’s own pantry.

Address: 16 Kendrick Street, Stroud GL5 1AA
Website: madeinstroud.co.uk

Stroud Farmers' Market

You simply cannot miss the Stroud Farmers' Market, a renowned highlight that could almost be the beating-heart of the town. Originally launched by fashion icons Isabella Blow and Jasper Conran in 1999, the market takes place every Saturday from 9am to 2pm, with over 50 stalls. It’s your chance to marvel at the local produce and goods crafted by the finest local makers.

Address: Cornhill, Stroud GL5 2HE
Website: fresh-n-local.co.uk

Antiques shopping

Overflowing with antiques and vintage fashion, Stroud is renowned for its old-world offerings where you can delve into the best pre-loved treasures. Mann Jewellers in Stroud, a family-run independent jewellers going since 1741 and trading in Stroud for over 70 years, is a gold mine for unique gems. It’s where I worked in my younger years during school summers, learning all about watchmaking, bespoke jewels and diamonds. The Malthouse Collective is another iconic Stroud landmark crammed with antiques, a place that lures shoppers from across the county looking for something out of the ordinary.

Address: Mann Jewellers, 8 George Street, Stroud GL5 3DX; The Malthouse Collective, Salmon Springs Trading Estate, Painswick Road, Stroud GL6 6NU
Website: mannjewellers.com; themalthousecollective.co.uk

Gifford Circus at Fennells Farm

For family-friendly entertainment, Gifford Circus should be at the top of your bucket list – an experience I first enjoyed at the age of six. This iconic circus, set against the lush beauty of Stroud at Fennells Farm, offers picturesque views overlooking the striking Slad Valley. Prepare to embrace farmland mud and immerse yourself in the fairy-tale splendour brought to life by an array of old-world circus acts.

Address: Giffords Circus, Fennells Farm, Lypiatt, Stroud, GL6 7NE
Website: giffordscircus.com

Stroud Subscription Rooms

Named one of Gloucestershire’s best entertainment venues for 2023 and where the Beatles performed in 1962, the Stroud Subscription Rooms is a vibrant hub of musical and cultural creativity. It promises a memorable night out, with a range of experiences. They switch up their events each week, so you’ll always have a perpetual reason to visit.

Address: George Street, Stroud GL5 1AE
Website: thesubrooms.co.uk

Walking trails

Stroud is a haven for walking trails that seem to stretch on endlessly. Blessed with staggering vistas and tranquillity, prepare to be swept up by the blissful scent of bluebells and century-old trees. From the Laurie Lee Wildlife Way to the Frampton Mansell Walk and Daneway Walk, don’t miss the passing of the famed Thames and Sapperton Canal, currently undergoing restoration and supported by King Charles, a longstanding advocate of the Cotswolds Canals Trust. These walking trails will no doubt be memorable; a highlight from my childhood was an iconic slip-up onto a bed of wild garlic while journeying the Daneway Walk with my grandma – it sure was an ever-so-clever Mr Bean moment. Be sure to take your camera, you’ll want to catch the unexpected!

Woodchester Valley Vineyard

For some summer fun and for those with a passion for wines, consider Woodchester Valley Vineyard, a family-owned boutique vineyard set on the rolling-green slopes of the Stroud Valleys. A day trip here is certainly unforgettable, where you can sample the award-winning Cotswold wines and revel in the world of winemaking.

Address: Convent Lane, Stroud GL5 5HR
Website: woodchestervalleyvineyard.co.uk

Stroud & District Clay Club

For the sport enthusiasts, the Stroud & District Clay club offers shooters an authentic taste of the Cotswold sport set upon the verdant green of Bisley in Stroud. There’s nowhere more authentic than this spot to try your hand at this iconic sport. Be sure to book in advance, as it’s a favoured choice among the locals.

Address: Lime Kiln Lane, Bisley, Stroud GL6 7AS
Website: facebook.com